Navigate Our Waters
Fly Patterns Forum
Tying Techniques Forum
Tips For Our Forums
Has TSS helped you?
If so, why not help us.
Pledge your support.
New Scientific Anglers
System 4 Reels
Made in the USA!
Stream Flow Data
Moon Phase Data
St Croix Fly Rods!
1900+ Fly Patterns
Double Handed Rods
Fly Fishing Accessories
Gear Bags & Luggage
Bob James Centrepin Reel - Model 2080
How to rig your gear for Steelheading fishing, Questions and answers...about methods, equipment, and steelhead fly fishing gear.
11 posts • Page 1 of 1
by steelheaderny » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:52 pm
I finally tried placing my weight on a snap swivel on my main line above the barrel swivel that's attached to my tippet. This allows much more strike sensitivity as the line moves freely through the snap swivel to the fly or spawn hook as opposed to an attached weight on the main line, and I've been much more successful since the switch. (I bottom bounce). I've been using 1/8" pencil lead due to the lack of water in the salmon river lately. I'll switch to 3/16" lead when the water rises. I saw others using this method, but never tried it until this season. I can feel every tick and bounce much better this way, and I can feel the line moving over the fishes' backs when they move into my drift. I use #12 barrel swivels from mainline to tippet, and it's difficult to find a small enough snap swivel that will not run over the barrel swivel attached to my tippet. I remedy this by crimping the snap swivel slightly with pliers so it will not run past the barrel swivel. If you bounce for steel, give this method a try- you'll be surprised with the results.
by Fishndude » Wed Jan 27, 2010 7:41 am
The nicest thing about pencil weights is that you can carry some needlenose pliers, and can cut them down if you need to. The bead makes all the difference, as others have mentioned. Also, for newer folks, if you keep your rod tip downstream of your line (lead your line) you will have a much more sensitive drift, as well.
If you are drift fishing, and can feel the fish moving when your line hits them, then they are off their bite. I usually rest the hole when this happens, and hit it again after 15-30 minutes. I have often gotten bites doing this, when I had gone awhile without anything nibbling.
by SAGA » Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:14 am
I call the rig you described a slip-rig, or a 3-way slip rig, although an actual 3-way swivel is not used at the mainline/leader juncture.
Closing down the barrel enough so the no#12 barrel swivel won't slide through it, is a faily simple process, lots of times easier that picking up/fishing out one of those small beads from a small tackle box and threading it on, especially with cold hands. Crimping down all your barrels on the pencil lead wts ahead of time is warmer and remarkably easy.
Now they used to make a special set of pliers ($17 in 1999) that would punch a hole in hollow core pencil lead that comes in a bulk roll. (<Very economical) Its easy to snipp off off and adjust for weight downward. Instead of using just a barrell swivel, you used a barrel/snap swivel which attached to the hole punched in the pencil lead. Then you can add an all together new length of weight without retieing anything if you need to add weight to your rig. Pre punching a weght assortment at home in its warmth is also possible
There was an interum slip rig method that utilized some rubber surgical tubing to attach solid pencil lead wt but it was a bit convoluted and harder to deal with. The hole punch plier method is about the best and most economical after you get past the outlay for the pliers themselves , which you don't want to drop into the river, have them attached to you.
by steelheaderny » Fri Jan 29, 2010 5:42 pm
I had another gentleman tell me to add a bead to the mainline above the barrel swivel. I'm sure this will help attract fish, but will Mr. steelie hit the bead? I got a pair of those punch needle nose pliers for x-mas, and they are awesome. It's a little difficult to punch out 1/8" lead, but by centering it carefully, it can be done easily. The pliers have a nub on one end of the needle nose, and it's excellent for removing hooks from fish. I think that's what it's for?
by SAGA » Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:39 pm
You may want to try flattening the 1/8" lead a bit more before punching it out.
The whole bead bit, came from the Bass boys carolina rig, (similar slip rig) the bead is used there to protect the knot, as the weights used are heavier (on average) and can easily distress the knot. The sharp inner edge of the bead hole can cut into a knot also, its best to have a beveled edge on the bigger Basser beads. The smaller steelie beads mostly serve to stop termial tackle from passing through
You may have just lined a steelie and it seemed like he hit the bead, but alot of fish are caught on a single jensen egg and a bead looks alot like that.
by tpcollins » Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:04 am
When used with shooting line, it's called Chuck n' Duck. Very easy from a boat, but a stripping basket works best when wading in the water. I can cast further with a leisurely toss versus a hard one that tries to pull everything thru the guides at once.
by no lead » Mon Mar 22, 2010 9:28 pm
11 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: david.s_ and 2 guests
Bleeding Prawn Collection
Steelhead/Salmon New Traditionals
Steelhead Alley Collection
Steelhead/Salmon Marabou Collection
Steelhead/Salmon Essentials Collection
Steelhead/Salmon Signature Series Collection
Steelhead/Salmon Extreme Collection
All Fly Collections